Tuna

Apologies to vegans and vegetarians. This one is probably not for you. However, I have been writing this blog for well over a year now and I haven’t once mentioned the word tuna, which is strange since tuna is at the heart of this part of Spain. I have to say, it’s pretty close to my heart too and, in fact, the reason we came here in the first place.

I grew up knowing tuna as something that came out of a can soaking up oil – something  mushed up with mayonnaise and eaten between two slices of bread. Not that I mind the odd tuna sandwich  but it really is very different from my more recent tuna experiences, first in Panama and now here in Spain. Now say tuna to me and I get visions of bustling fish markets proudly displaying huge chunks of almost translucent dark red meat.

 

Southern Spain is the home of the atun rojo- red tuna-  aka Atlantic Bluefin  which is recognized as one of the finest. These large, powerful fish are capable of crossing the Atlantic in only 60 days at a speed of 45mph. Their speed actually gave them their name: tuna is Greek for rush!

Bluefin tuna pass along this coast every year on their way to their spawning grounds in the mediterranean and so have been fished and eaten  here for thousands of years. The Phoenicians  developed a complex net system known as  ‘almadraba‘ which is the trapping system still used today. When the annual northern migration starts every spring, the local tuna fishermen,, head out to sea,  within a strictly designated area, to set up their labyrinth of nets and anchors. That in itself is weeks of work. When the tuna arrive they get caught in the nets and the fishermen work tirelessly till they fill their quota. If I were a real journalist I’d get myself onto one of their boats and document it all, but it’s a bit of a blood bath and I definitely don’t have the stomach for it. Even standing on the docks at Barbate and  watching them bring in the catch was a bit too close for comfort. 

Bringing up the catch – almadraba

The best of the fish go straight to Japan and the refrigerated trucks speed the fish away from the port as quickly as possible. The Japanese, who consume three quarters of all that is caught worldwide, are extremely demanding about the quality of their fish. They probably wouldn’t even look at what makes it to the market here but  I am not as discerning and I am more than impressed with what is on offer!

Before coming to live here I knew nothing about cured tuna. This is a tradition that goes way back to pre refrigeration times . ‘Mojama” ( mo-ha-ma)  looks a bit like beef jerky, hard and dry but with a salty fishy smell. It sounds horrible and I think is horrible if you just eat it like that, as we did the first time we tried it. But if you slice it very thinly and leave it to marinate in olive oil for about 20 minutes, it absorbs the oil and softens completely.  It becomes a bit of a fish version of the Spanish  jamon,  and is eaten as a tapa with bread – and a glass of wine.

The fresh fish however, is a real treat – and even quite affordable at current prices. It has the firmness of meat yet is so soft that it melts in your mouth. A  popular way to serve it in Spain these days  is tuna tartare – a dish that came out of California.The raw tuna is finely chopped and seasoned with a little soya sauce, lime juice, olive oil, green onion, sesame seeds, mustard  chopped capers…the choice is yours.  Press it into some kind of mould (a cup or small bowl), let it cool in the fridge – or  freezer for 15 mins –  to chill though and then turn it out onto a plate and serve it with thin toast or crackers. Lovely too with avocado.

 Most of the time we make Japanese style tuna tataki (quick seared). It is semi raw and retains its natural texture and flavour. It’s fast and it’s easy and a real delicacy.

Tuna Tataki

• • A piece of tuna loin or belly

 

• • soy sauce,

 

• • sesame seeds

 

• a few drops of sesame oil

Marinate the tuna briefly in some soy sauce and a few drops of sesame oil. Sprinkle sesame seeds on top and let it sit for just a few minutes.Then heat some oil in a pan and once the pan is really hot, quickly sear the tuna on both sides. The trick is to be quick so it cooks only on the outside, leaving the inside raw. If it cooks all the way through, well, its just not the same.  I like it with wasabi and pickled ginger – or wasabi mixed with a little mayonnaise if the wasabi is too hot. 

The majestic Tuna comes in all shapes and sizes but it’s the Atlantic Bluefin that is the jewel in the crown!